HOW TO: Heater Matrix Repair

RJ237

Member
Messages
110
Bypass is easy. If you can't find the procedure using the search I'm sure someone here will help.
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,688
They weep rather than gush so just take some 50/50 blue coolant/water mix…assuming you have blue and not pink.

Did one last week, it’s pretty involved and you will need a medium 3 legged puller. Apart from that it’s all pain in the @ss bolts.
 

RJ237

Member
Messages
110
They weep rather than gush so just take some 50/50 blue coolant/water mix…assuming you have blue and not pink.

Did one last week, it’s pretty involved and you will need a medium 3 legged puller. Apart from that it’s all pain in the @ss bolts.
A three legged puller for the heater matrix, or did I misread?
 

Advancedme

Junior Member
Messages
18
Pretty sure mine is leaking, my drivers footwell is damp and a bit sticky feeling, and I just checked the coolant tank and it was pretty low :(

There's a show in a couple of weeks I'd like to be at in the car.
It's roughly 140 miles round trip.
I expect there is basically no chance of me replacing it by then so...
Do I:
- Take another car. It's too risky.
- Take the Maser it'll be fine, just take some coolant too and top it up before I leave.
- Somehow bypass the matrix temporarily (that this quick / easy, and if so how?)


I'll start ordering parts tomorrow :(
Do I need anything other than the (Alfa 1
If your car is RHD, drop the glove box fully out and you can see the two hoses that feed the heater matrix.

This is the point to bypass

You'll need some instant gasket sealant to seal the heater housing when you change the matrix.

Be aware that Kseal has side effects... It is not a Panacea.

Good luck
 

conaero

Forum Owner
Messages
34,688
If your car is RHD, drop the glove box fully out and you can see the two hoses that feed the heater matrix.

This is the point to bypass

You'll need some instant gasket sealant to seal the heater housing when you change the matrix.

Be aware that Kseal has side effects... It is not a Panacea.

Good luck
I would need to look at it but maybe a simpler way is to disconnect the two pipes in the engine bay where they go through the bulkhead? You could then rig up a return pipe. If you do remove the glove box there is a triangular mounting plate directly under the heater matrix, if it’s wet or covered in a white powdery residue, that confirms your matrix is leaking.
 

doodlebug

Member
Messages
919
Pretty sure mine is leaking, my drivers footwell is damp and a bit sticky feeling, and I just checked the coolant tank and it was pretty low :(

There's a show in a couple of weeks I'd like to be at in the car.
It's roughly 140 miles round trip.
I expect there is basically no chance of me replacing it by then so...
Do I:
- Take another car. It's too risky.
- Take the Maser it'll be fine, just take some coolant too and top it up before I leave.
- Somehow bypass the matrix temporarily (that this quick / easy, and if so how?)


I'll start ordering parts tomorrow :(
Do I need anything other than the (Alfa 166) Matrix?
I drove mine 140 miles a couple of weeks ago, specifically to have the car serviced and the heater matrix changed. I just kept an eye on the temperature gauge in case there was a catastrophic leak. All fixed now thanks to Matt.
 

RJ237

Member
Messages
110
I didn't pull the wheel when I changed the matrix in my spyder, and the bypass was done in the engine compartment. The bypass procedure was written by Craig Waterman.
 

Corranga

Member
Messages
1,240
I've looked over the procedure on the forum, and saw posts about not pulling the wheel too. I've had cruise control stalks sitting in my garage for 5 or 6 years though, so I might do it anyway. My header tank is a bit old and yellow too, so a nice opportunity to change that too I think. I've ordered the alternative Fiat Doblo part as per advice elsewhere on this forum. What a place this is! Thanks all :)
 

Corranga

Member
Messages
1,240
Remove the ashtry and disconect the conector and then the coin tray rubber matt and remove the 2 screws.

DSC00999.jpg

So… I got to step 3 before getting stuck. My car is a facelift. Under the ashtray is a hole where perhaps once there was a bolt, but where’s the other one? Do I have to remove the cup holder panel or something?

IMG_0427.jpeg
 

Corranga

Member
Messages
1,240
Step 15: Speedometre removal

  1. Remove the 2 bolts on the steel bracket at the top.

    DSC01026.jpg
  2. Remove the 4 screws 2 on top marked with arrow and 2 underneath.

    DSC01027.jpg

    DSC01028.jpg

Correction for step 15. There are only 4 bolts total, the 2 in step / photo 1, then ignore the next 2 photos. The circles clearly indicate 2 screws that hold the the Perspex on, and 2 empty holes (which were also empty on my car).

The 2 bolts you actually want are almost immediately below the splits in the dash trim (at the bottom of the photo, directly below the centre of the speedo and tachometer gauges, and are screwed in upwards. :)
 

Nibby

Member
Messages
2,139
Be aware that Kseal has side effects... It is not a Panacea.
What side effects would that be?
Recommend to me by the late Tony Hart(Triumph Stag guru) on a leaking stag inlet manifold with no side effects. Triumph Stags are notorious for their narrow waterways and poor cooling.
Used on the 4200 heater matrix last June with no side effects, just checked coolant level 5 minutes ago, no drop in level from last June.